Here in Pamplona, the capital of Navarra, we have time for afternoon activities in the winding cobblestone streets of the Old Town. ![]() Passing through the Portal de Francia, we enter the medieval citadel. Descending through iconic Pyrenean villages, such as Burguete where Hemingway idled away many a sunny afternoon, up the Erro mountain pass, and along the ever-widening Arga River we arrive to Pamplona. We start with a visit to the crypt where a king and queen of Navarra are laid to rest, and thus begin our own epic journey on the Camino de Santiago. It is not impossible to complete it by bike, but you will have to push the bike a lot of times and take it calmly in order to enjoy it intensely.On our first day, we transfer up to Roncesvalles where the journey begins in the high Pyrenees, with views of the silvery peaks against mountain skies. The conclusion is that Camino Primitivo is a route to walk rather than to go on bike. My advice is to continue by road to the dam of the swamp of GRANDAS DE SALIME for two reasons, because on the road we will be a lot safer and accompanied and the main reason, we can enjoy of the stunning views that the area gives us, in which we sometimes get the feeling of looking through the window of an airplane and we can see down, very down some dreamy landscapes, dotted with green fields with horses trotting in semi-freedom and precious stone-roofed villages that seem anchored in time. For those coming to this area with end-stage approach, it will not be a bad idea spend the night in POLA DE ALLANDE to face the mountain pass in the morning with renewed strength and courage.Īlso in the same area and after passing the pass of Palo, after a long descent we should continue by road as the asphalt and the path frolic through this area, being the route paths and mountain trails with some danger when going through them by bike, we will get to the small village of LA MESA, here the path is far from the road and goes through a difficult mountain trail very hilly and that can provide technical difficulties to follow cycling. In this area there is no possibility of provisioning as there are no towns in nearly 20 km and in the present case, “the bike-pilgrims case”, it is recommended to go down to POLA DE ALLANDE and then go up the mountain pass of PALO by road to seek safety on the route and some company in case we have any contingency in route. ![]() The path of HOSPITALES is very beautiful and lonely, but also very hard and dangerous if weather conditions are adverse, and in case of fog or snow we can have a really bad time. In exchange through HOSPITALES variant we will not have to descend into the valley and we could keep the dimension of altitude as we brought before more or less, with only a drop ahead of about 600 m. If we look at the profile of the stage we will see that POLA DE ALLANDE is at the bottom of a deep valley and you have to cycle through a big downhill and then get the big “mega-raise” and head to the mountain pass that is located none other than 1,146 m. I insist that this does not mean that you can not make it biking but you have to take precautions and go through this route alerted and prepared to face it.Īfter TINEO we enter in the vicinity of Puerto del Palo and just after passing it we have the option to either continue by road to POLA DE ALLANDE or take the variant of HOSPITALES. If following the original road, there are areas where it is impossible to go on the bike, not only on rises (what can be considered as normal) but on the downhills as the roads are full of stones and steps that generally make much of the route not cyclable. So for those who make the approach of going down this route, be warned that you will face a route through a very mountainous and rugged area. In short, I loved this route, but forgetting my passion for cycling and my status as bicigrino it does not hurt to recognize that this is a journey that will undoubtedly be infinitely more enjoyable walking than cycling. ![]() ![]() the countryside and mountains all around us … but how difficult it is to cross it biking… at least if our intention is to follow the path marked with yellow arrows. The further I went and the more I analyzed it, the more I realized that in terms of landscape is undoubtedly the most beautiful of all the routes, its paths go deep into lush forests, up and down through mountains with breathtaking views over green valleys, dotted with small towns and villages…. When I did it personally in 2010, I could see firsthand its stunning beauty but also its extreme hardness. Camino Primitivo can be done cycling but that does not mean it is the most suitable route to do on two wheels.
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